The Domaine Hubert Lamy wines suffer from one flaw. They are in a ‘lesser’ appellation. If you could pick up his vineyards and place them within the boundary of Chassagne or Puligny then their worth would be at least three times as much. Bad news for them, great news for us. Structured wines with a freshness that sits over the top. They are charming and complex wines. Perfectly aged in my cellar.
Tucked away behind the favourite white wine regions of Burgundy is this gem of an appellation. Bursting full of good quality producers and woefully underpriced there are many bargains to be had here. The very best wines don’t tend to scale the heights of Chassagne or Puligny but overall they compete very well.
The classic part of Burgundy known as the Cote D’Or (the slope of gold) is essentially one vineyard that is 60km long and maybe 5km at its widest. From this limestone ridge some of the most complex, long-lived and aromatic wines are produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Cistercian monks who owned the land codified the entire region and so each small plot has a name.
Generally from one vineyard but can be blended or declassified from a Grand Cru vineyard. The step up here can be dramatically spectacular or wholly disappointing. Often the best value wines are found here as well as starting to see wines with serious aging potential.
The grape that you can plant anywhere, in any climate and do anything to and it will still taste like an OK wine. When people hit the sweet spot of site, climate, cropping and winemaking, Chardonnay becomes a magical wine that will age gracefully but charm you at any age. Chardonnays can range from cool climate lean and citrusy to warmer climate tropical and overt. Oak and lees can add flavouring as can malolactic fermentation.