Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is the Brunier family’s flagship. Situated on the famous, vast, stony terrace of La Crau plateau, in the southeast of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC. Of the 173 acres that form the domaine today, 65 are dedicated to red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and five to white. Four wines are produced Vieux Télégraphe, The oldest vines and the most complex cuvees produce the Vieux Télégraphe red and white. There is also red and white under their second label Le Télégramme. But this wine isn’t second to many, especially in good to great years.
In 1999 great producers made good wines with medium body and good freshness. This was a lovely savoury, earthy and tea leaf affair with currants and hints of leather, hung meat and rose petals. The palate had good weight and fruit with plenty of life left in it. I’d drink these wines over the next 18 months but I have no doubt they will live longer in good conditions.