The son in law of the great Chablis producer Rene Dauvissat. This discovery for me was a spine tingling moment, especially because I had already tasted the wine and thought it was outstanding. The vineyards here are separate to that of Dauvissat but for a while the wines were made in the same cellar. Their Chablis AC is a benchmark and the Premier Cru are hard to come by but must try wines.
Dry, boney, earthy, blink and you’ll miss the nuanced nose. But oh my, with time and patience you’ll get to see a charming and thrilling AC Chablis that puts a lot of Premier Cru to shame. There is a good tingle of minerals and piercing acidity on the palate. This is the first wine that has gone into Rory’s birth year collection. It’ll age brilliantly. Food matches now would be something clean and simple, but in 10-20 years it will be crayfish or something similarly distinctive.
The kimmeridgean soils that make Chablis taste like Chablis is evident in these wines. They have more definition of region and more structure than a Petit Chablis but without the fruit weight and intensity of the better sites. Great wines for drinking young or youngish.
The grape that you can plant anywhere, in any climate and do anything to and it will still taste like an OK wine. When people hit the sweet spot of site, climate, cropping and winemaking, Chardonnay becomes a magical wine that will age gracefully but charm you at any age. Chardonnays can range from cool climate lean and citrusy to warmer climate tropical and overt. Oak and lees can add flavouring as can malolactic fermentation.