Famous for making wines of weight and power, it was only since son Arnaud took over that the wines are achieving Denis’ dream of elegance and finesse. The Mortets are related to the famous Rousseau family. And like the Rousseaus they oversee a stunning Gevrey based Domaine. Although the Mortets to hold vineyards in other appellations including the underrated Fixin and Marsannay which in the right hands can be unbelievably good and great value. The wines at Mortet typically show great concentration and power with nice elegance.
This derives from a .32ha single parcel located midway up the hill on the Marsannay side of the village. Les Champs Pennebaut (the field of Pennebaut) bears the name of an owner long gone and has the classic clay/limestone soils of the Côte d’Or.
“Here too there is an adroit application of wood setting off fresh and ripe aromas of violets and plum. The very round, suave and supple flavors display both good energy and fine volume before terminating in a balanced and persistent finish that exhibits a bit of youthful Fixin austerity.” 87-89 points, burghound.com, issue 49
The classic part of Burgundy known as the Cote D’Or (the slope of gold) is essentially one vineyard that is 60km long and maybe 5km at its widest. From this limestone ridge some of the most complex, long-lived and aromatic wines are produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Cistercian monks who owned the land codified the entire region and so each small plot has a name.
This is the most elusive grape. It is relatively early ripening and extremely sensitive to terroir. Its perfect place on earth is the Cote d’Or in Burgundy. So haunting are great red Burgundy’s charms that growers everywhere try to emulate them. Pinot Noir is not just a one trick pony. It can make great reds, rosé, sparkling and even sweet wines, whites on occasion. And I’ve tasted a decent fortified Pinot Noir too.