Having tasted 1982 Gran Reserva and 1981 Reserva at a dinner in 2014, I am a paid-up fan of Bodega Conde Valdemar. Not that the Reserva or Gran Reserva are expensive but the Rioja Crianza offers stunning value to wine drinkers. Having spent less time in the winery, it is a lighter, fresher and vibrant exploration of Tempranillo. Red fruits, roses, spice and leather. It is mid-weight, soft and juicy. Make no mistake, though, there is still the hallmark Tempranillo silken mouth feel and savouriness that is a highlight of the grape. A few years in bottle has really done it the world of good.

With over one hundred years of experience, you are not going to find a better place to start tasting traditional Rioja. They started in the highly regarded and high altitude Rioja Alavesa, then slowly acquired vineyards across the Alta (also high altitude) and lower, hotter Baja region. They make remarkable wines that can age exceptionally well at the top end. Just lovely.