Description
The Taillepieds vineyard in Volnay does have a touch of magic about it and I would treat this as a Grand Cru equivalent wine. I tried this at my Burgundy dinner at the start of 2018. This is one producer I cannot get enough of. The Montille style is lean, perfumed and long finishing. The Domaine has great vineyards in Volnay, Pommard, Aloxe Corton and other parts of Southern Burgundy. The wines are now a lot more expensive than when I was collecting 10 years ago. Deservedly so as the Montille Premier Crus taste and drink more like Grand Crus. The Taillepieds is a great vineyard. Offering density, complexity and perfume. This wine is nuanced mineral, floral, red fruits, spice, meaty, earthy, leather. This wine could easily have been wine of the night but for one reason: Like the Gouges, it was just too young.
The Domaine is now run by the children of iconic winemaker Hubert de Montille. Their wines embody the Volnay spirit (the village where the Domaine is based), have the acid drive and focus of the region as well as its pretty aromatics. Every Montille wine is a pleasure to drink. They do look much better with time in bottle though.
Service
Drink it from now but I think there is a lot of life in this wine yet. Decanting would not hurt or let it evolve in the glass and see the layers the Montille wines offer.
Food Matches
Beef, cheese. Something with some density that is for sure.
Volnay
Lighter, elegant, perfumed reds from Cote du Beaune. Due to their lightness of weight they are not as well regarded as some appellations. But from good producers the reds in Volnay are as good as any in Burgundy.
Burgundy
The classic part of Burgundy known as the Cote D’Or (the slope of gold) is essentially one vineyard that is 60km long and maybe 5km at its widest. From this limestone ridge some of the most complex, long-lived and aromatic wines are produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Cistercian monks who owned the land codified the entire region and so each small plot has a name.
Pinot Noir
This is the most elusive grape. It is relatively early ripening and extremely sensitive to terroir. Its perfect place on earth is the Cote d’Or in Burgundy. So haunting are great red Burgundy’s charms that growers everywhere try to emulate them. Pinot Noir is not just a one trick pony, it can make great reds, rosé, sparkling and even sweet wines, whites on occasion and I’ve tasted a decent fortified Pinot Noir too.
2006
Overlooked after the stunning 2005 vintage, the 06s offer lovely drinking from the good producers. True to terroir, well balanced and refreshing wines that will live longer than most people think.
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